In the great French city of Reims, renowned for its towering cathedral and Champagne houses, lies an irresistible spectacle: the Subé Fountain. Place Drouet d’Erlon, the vibrant pedestrian street of the city, harbours this impressive emblem of Freemasonry. Ember-faced natives and colourful tourists ash their cigarettes in its basin. Wedding photographs are taken under its golden aura and children return home exhausted from a day spent circle-dancing this ever-present monument. Yet, the Subé Fountain is so much more than a convenient rendezvous point. Since 1907, it has been silently narrating the tale of the city, its history embedded in droplets of water that splash rhythmically from the mouths of two mighty sea monsters and four heraldic animals.
The fountain, a monument worthy of mythology, stimulates every sensory impulse. As if for an opera, the curtain lifts for the viewers when they break free from the shadows of narrow alleys to enter a wide clearing rife with the clinking of nearby cafés and merry commotion. The sight that envelops them is one of granite and gold, of art and antiquity. The Subé Fountain dominates the stage, its bronze base intricately sculpted, its upper marble tiers trickling water into the basin below. A gleaming gold statue of Winged Victory crowns the edifice, her exultant pose ambitious even for the cerulean firmament over her head.
For those who wish to experience this spectacle of French possibly, best times to visit are said to be in the hush of early morning as the city stirs to life, or under the spell of a crimson sunset when the Sky’s blush catches onto Victory’s fluttering robe. As for reaching Reims, it is a mere two hours train ride from Paris, making it an easily accessible escape from the Capital’s more hurried life.
A pause by the Subé Fountain offers an opportunity to sample Reims’ unique culture. The city, a collage of antiquity and modernity, is populated by stores selling delectable French cheese, bakeries with an irresistible waft of freshly-baked croissants, and haute couture boutiques, all lining the periphery of the Plaza.
Digging into the city’s architectural heritage, one realises that the Subé Fountain reflects the resilience of Reims, having persevered through two World Wars and countless hardships. These murmurs of the past mingle with the effervescence of the present, enriching any bystander’s experience, indeed transforming it from a mere travel opportunity into a journey through time.
One cannot leave Reims without partaking in the city’s most cherished and globally-acknowledged celebration – Champagne tasting. Sipping on the golden elixir sourced from manicured vineyards dotting the city’s outskirts, under the watchful gaze of the gilded Victory, is an experience destined to be etched in memory for eternity.
Lure of the Subé Fountain extends far beyond the sparkling streets of Reims. If French soil is to be tread upon in the near future, spare a thought for this historic city and its Fountain. Who knows, the Winged Victory might just bestow upon you a few golden moments of tranquillity amid the awe-inspiring artistry and vintage champagne. Embark on this journey to Reims and let its old-world charm work its magic on your senses, unravelling a side of France that transcends the clichéd allure of Paris.